The Gun Carriage Braces
In order to control the spacing and reduce the flex of the frame, the gun carriage needs bracing. Looking at pictures and painting of gun carriages, I generally see one at the end of the trail - horizontal to the ground - and one at the front - vertical to the ground - to support the gun barrel. Additionally there are one or more in the center, sometimes as a box. As you can see, I added a simple brace to support the center, and the back of the barrel. I'm not trying to be accurate here; this is a representation of a Napoleonic artillery piece.
I found that simply gluing the braces was not enough. There was still too much flex, which in turn caused the bond to break. Out came the drill. As I have been doing with my figures now, for example with the arms, I drilled holes through the carriage into the braces, then inserted the dowels. I used wire snips to cut the dowels shorter.
A side effect of using the wire snips, which pinch the wood before it cuts, is that the dowel ends look like rivets. So, I won't file these flat.
Another view of the gun carriage, showing the front brace.
The Barrel Support
The barrel is supported on the gun carriage by bars on each side of the barrel, which rest on a depression of the gun carriage. For the bars I drilled a hole through the barrel from one side to the next and glued a dowel into the hole.
I sanded a depression into the gun carriage over the axle.
I then sanded a depression into the forward brace so the gun barrel can rest on it.
Here is the final assembled artillery piece. I've placed one of my figures to the right to show it for comparison purposes. From a height perspective, this piece is probably appropriate for field artillery, while the barrel is more proportioned for heavy artillery, like a 12 pounder.
That said, I am happy with the piece and it will serve as an interesting center-piece for a skirmish scenario.
Next up: paint it as a French artillery piece.
- ► 2017 (38)
- ▼ February (6)
Hello Everyone [Matt here], Dale was nice enough to invite me to submit a guest entry on his Wooden Warriors blog. I was more than happy t...
My goal was to scratch-build and paint a 28mm DBA Early Armenian (II/28(b)) army in twelve days, but I did not make it. More like 24 days, e...
So the call went out on the Wargaming on a Budget forum for how to make helmets for ancient warriors, like a Greek Hoplite. I have been won...
I decided to use the rules Song of Drums and Shakos (SDS), which are simple to teach, but give the player tactical choices to make, so it n...
One of the uniform elements that I really like is the Prussian pickelhaube from the Franco-Prussian War-era, similar to this one . In additi...
I was costing out my various Napoleonic figures for the rules Song of Drums and Shakos , and I thought it would be interesting to try and co...
Generally speaking, I stay away from Hot Glue and Hot Glue Guns. I inevitably burn my fingertips by smooshing it into the molten glue at som...
I was accused of teasing :) you all with my last entry, because I did not include a picture of the final product. That wasn't teasing; I...
This is why I paint Napoleonics. It is because of uniforms like this. I first saw a picture of the 1807 French Napoleonics Carabiniers in a ...
Hi Everyone, I finally got around to painting the Mind Flayer and the Otyugh figures I made a while back. I've been working on a &quo...
Labels I Use in Posts
- ancients (26)
- battle report (4)
- beads (3)
- casting (4)
- dba (10)
- experiments (64)
- fantasy (55)
- gaming (33)
- medieval (7)
- minimalist (4)
- napoleonic (42)
- news (3)
- painting (40)
- printed paper (8)
- products (12)
- review (12)
- sci-fi (5)
- Shadowsea (2)
- soldiers (131)
- steampunk (3)
- terrain (7)
- tools (11)
- toy (8)
- tutorial (74)
- warriors (149)
- wooden (179)
- WWII (3)